Pearls are the stunning result of tiny bits of detritus finding their way into the shells of molluscs (oysters, mussels etc) The mollusc defends itself from this intrusion by coating the foreign object in a layer of nacre. Nacre is basically the tough, iridescent substance that coats the insides of the mollusc. After a period of perhaps two to ten years, a pearl of useable size is formed.
Although occurring naturally, the process of creating a pearl is pretty easy to replicate. The Japanese were the first to combat depletion of the world’s natural oyster beds during the late 19th Century by creating pearl farms. These natural habitats are fiercely protected and have given the pearl industry (and oyster population) the shot in the arm it need after severe over harvesting and destruction of natural environment via mining, fishing, building and pollution.
The cultured pearls of pearl farms are manmade. Usually a speck or bead is placed deliberately inside the mollusc to cultivate a pearl. Although authentically grown (i.e. covered by natural nacre) cultured pearls tend to hold lower value compared to their natural cousins. The rarity of natural pearls isn’t their only vice. The quality of natural pearls is impossible to regulate. However cultured pearls can be controlled from inception, making them far more useful, though arguably a little less romantic in history than natural pearls.
Having said that, the pearl industry would simply not exist today without the discovery that all types of pearl – freshwater pearls, south sea pearls etc. – can be grown synthetically. Although still functioning today, the natural pearl industry is heavily regulated or banned entirely in most of the world’s precious natural mollusc habitats. By the end of the 19th Century, vital natural mollusc habitats had been harvested to the brink of destruction. Artificial pearl farming has arguably saved species as well as the livelihoods of jewellers.